does any one have them.... how are they and are they easy to install??? i was looking at the full kit for 699.99 that does front a arm rear camber and traction bars.... any help would be great thanks

 

Lots of people here have them. If you've got basic mechanical skills and the proper tools they are not hard to install. The fronts are the hardest as you have to remove the whole strut assembly to get one the arm bolts out.

 

Word to the wise, we have seen a G owner with the front Kinetix arms experiencing noise from the poly bushings a while after the install.

Frankly, contact Adam at Z1Motorsports here and ask him when the Cusco front arms are coming out. Only detail we need on the Cusco front camber arms is exactly how much camber they can correct for. And for the rear you should use SPC's rear camber arms/toe bolts. That combo should be less then $699 and you'll be adjusting rear toe from the proper oem location, not via a adjustable radius arm, which is what the Kinetix traction arm is.

Here is Adam's profile so you can pm him about the exact price and avaliability for the Cusco front camber arms. https://my350z.com/forum/member.php?...o&userid=11322

And here's a link for the SPC rear camber arms/rear toe bolts.

http://iapdirect.com/item.asp?invid=622

 

^ I can vouch for the poly bushings that make noise. Mine do this as well.

 

how bad is the noise from the bushings? im not sure if i want to install mine now

 

Is that SPC kit for the pair...or just one side? Thats the cheapest rear camber kit i've seen.

 

It's not that bad. I've been thinking about putting some grease on them to quiet it up. I only really notice it when I'm going in and out of driveways.

 

is it a clunking noises or a sqeeking noises?

 

It's a squeeking noise. Similar to the squeak you get on sways w/ the poly bushings.

 

That stuff is all well and good when you only have to worry about .5 degrees of camber. But in my situation, with about 2-3 degrees or more of camber to deal with those bolts won't help. The radius arms have some design flaws; if hit a curb or drive over a pothole, it can cause the wheel to turn in or out but that is like a 1 in a million thing I've heard.

I can vouch for the crunching/clunking noise that the ball joints are making on the control arms by kinetix. I am thinking that there could be some dust in the joint and it needs to be greased, but it is a horrid crunching noise and worries me. I could do without the camber fix if I have to endure all this noise on my new car. Bushing squeaks are one thing, but crunching.. no thanks.

jason

 

any one installed the spc bolit for the rear yet???... and is it hard to do with filing it out and all?

 

protocav has done many installations of the SPC kits. As for adjustments the toe bolts only adjust toe. The camber arms from SPC should be more than capable of bringing in that negative camber. If you're saying that your toe is off more than 3 degrees I think you've got bigger probs than those traction arms are going to fix.

 

Adjusting the rear trailing arm to adjust rear toe is not the correct way. It will throw off the rear geometry under compression. What your are experiencing is a direct result of doing so.

 

Well after some research it seems I do need the toe-bolts and I do need to elongate the holes with a rotary file to get the kind of toe adjustment I need. The problem with lowering your car an obscene amount is that no one else really does the same thing and you kind of have to play guess and check. I am, by no means, a suspension guru and I am trying to resolve my situation with the parts I have.

I am placing an order of 2 camber/toe kits and I am just going to take it with me when I get my alignment done. I really need to find out if anyone has done the camber/toe bolts and has pictures of the modifications needed so that my guy won't be shooting in the dark. Obviously I am sure he has some idea of what is going on but I would like it to be perfect.

I seemed to have found the source of the noise from the front and it's not coming from the control arms.. There seems to be some rubbing issues on the fender liner as the control arm rotates when the wheel is turned. I have had many conversations with Jamison from Kinetix and we seem to be on the same page.

 

I would PM protocav. He has installed these a grip of times and knows whats up.

 

maybe im read this wrong but are you saying that these Camber & Traction arms are not going to be able to get my camber and toe back to spec or at least close to spec??? or that the kinetix wont get the car back to spec on extreme drops like Jason's car???

 

turbomaxima and thebigsadler both = jason

with my drop of 3" or so.. I can't get it back into align without SPC toe bolts. they should be here next monday and hopefully JIC will send out a replacement shock and i will be on my way to the alignmnet shop.

 

The traction arms arent going to do ish for your toe adjustments. You need the SPC toe bolts for this.

 

yeah, thats what I figured by looking at your sig

ok, now a couple question

Where can I order the SPC Toe bolts?

Whats the use of the traction arms? On kinetix website it say it can adjust toe

Should I even install the traction arms?

How exactly do I install these Toe Bolts?

Jason I read you other post on g35driver I apperciate your help, I'll give you a PM if I need any help but im thinking I might just have a shop install everything with my EDFC

 

Call SPC from this site http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML and ask them for a local dealer/distributor in your area. Make sure it is a distributor that deals with independent one-time purchases (you may just have to call a few places). Then the local place will have to special order them for you; I paid $21.92 per kit and bought 2 kits. I have heard you only need to buy one if you are just using it for toe-bolts, but I couldn't get anyone to lay that out to me straight so I played it safe.

You need the traction arms I am pretty sure, because you actually need them to be slightly shorter than stock? I am fairly sure this is a correct statement... Although, if you use the toe-bolts and elongate the holes to get more toe adjustment you may only need the camber arms and the bolts.

I PMed "protocav" about the SPC Toe-Bolt install process and will relay the info here and to you when I get it. Basically you are just making a hole bigger and replacing the bolt which can then move more and give more adjustment. Sound right?

jason