HKS 9.0:1 Ratio; redline @ 7200 RPM
#21
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Chimmike - I know, and many of us here have proven them wrong over the years in terms of what the stock bottom end can deal with. I've been redlining my car to 7200 since having the flash done in 2003 - and my motor has been run for more than a few hours since then
An I beam rod is, by nature a rod with a slim profile and a non tapered design. They were conceived because of their ability to withstand high revs, combine comparitively lighter weight than an H beam or A beam. Like I said, its a rod with a specific purpose, just like an A beam or H beam has a specific purpose. It is not designed to be the biggest baddest rod of the bunch - but then again, its not meant to see alcohol use and it's not designed to run 30 + psi of boost with either. The I beam is designed with moderator boost and higher rpm use in mind, and they are also mean to be used with lighter weight pistons. Big heavy pistons, like those that you would use on the Darton sleeved motors for example, require a rod with a higher tensile strength, and that's why you'll find the H and A beam the most common there.
Each component has its purpose. You wouldnt use an I beam rod in a 1000 whp Z, and you wouldnt use an A beam in a 350 whp NA Z. It's merely another offering out there for the Z owners to chose from, and for alot of potential customers, it takes alot of the guess work out about what piston and rod combo will work well, etc.
I don't see these as limiting yourself at all, but rather, its a specific rod designed for a specific use. I look at them the same way as I do the Cosworth heads. A high end product that is not designed to appeal to the masses but rather fulfill a specific need or void in that company's product range.
Rod manufacturers are very attached to their designs being superior to their competitors, just like piston manufacturers. Some will only make an I beam (Cunningham being one). The trick with any build is to assess what you want, what you can afford, and the uses for the car, and from there, speak to someone who builds motors for a living to advise you on the best components to accomplish those goals. For some that will mean an H or A beam, for others, an I beam.
Some interesting reading on the design subject:
http://www.cunninghamrods.com/tech.html
http://www.carrilloind.com/03bro3.pd...%20a%20beam%22 (scan down to the last page)
What you'll find though is the overall construction of the rod, from a material standpoint, is ultimately more important than the design of the beam itself
An I beam rod is, by nature a rod with a slim profile and a non tapered design. They were conceived because of their ability to withstand high revs, combine comparitively lighter weight than an H beam or A beam. Like I said, its a rod with a specific purpose, just like an A beam or H beam has a specific purpose. It is not designed to be the biggest baddest rod of the bunch - but then again, its not meant to see alcohol use and it's not designed to run 30 + psi of boost with either. The I beam is designed with moderator boost and higher rpm use in mind, and they are also mean to be used with lighter weight pistons. Big heavy pistons, like those that you would use on the Darton sleeved motors for example, require a rod with a higher tensile strength, and that's why you'll find the H and A beam the most common there.
Each component has its purpose. You wouldnt use an I beam rod in a 1000 whp Z, and you wouldnt use an A beam in a 350 whp NA Z. It's merely another offering out there for the Z owners to chose from, and for alot of potential customers, it takes alot of the guess work out about what piston and rod combo will work well, etc.
I don't see these as limiting yourself at all, but rather, its a specific rod designed for a specific use. I look at them the same way as I do the Cosworth heads. A high end product that is not designed to appeal to the masses but rather fulfill a specific need or void in that company's product range.
Rod manufacturers are very attached to their designs being superior to their competitors, just like piston manufacturers. Some will only make an I beam (Cunningham being one). The trick with any build is to assess what you want, what you can afford, and the uses for the car, and from there, speak to someone who builds motors for a living to advise you on the best components to accomplish those goals. For some that will mean an H or A beam, for others, an I beam.
Some interesting reading on the design subject:
http://www.cunninghamrods.com/tech.html
http://www.carrilloind.com/03bro3.pd...%20a%20beam%22 (scan down to the last page)
What you'll find though is the overall construction of the rod, from a material standpoint, is ultimately more important than the design of the beam itself
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-03-2006 at 09:46 AM.
#22
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Looks like a very good option for a moderate boost build, or an NA buildup with higher compression. No two rods or pistons are alike. You will still find minor weight variances between each piece, and some final prep work is always needed on engine assembly.
IMHO, the more options the better. Balancing the rotating assembly is standard engine building practice, and does not really add too much to the overall buildup.
IMHO, the more options the better. Balancing the rotating assembly is standard engine building practice, and does not really add too much to the overall buildup.
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good point Sharif - the overall balancing process is not particularly time consuming, but if a manufacturer takes the time to do that process for you, all the better IMHO.
Personally on my own build (NA), I'll be using the Eagle's, for purely economic reasons, but am still deciding on pistons
Personally on my own build (NA), I'll be using the Eagle's, for purely economic reasons, but am still deciding on pistons
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Yeah, these HKS rods obviously weren't aimed at an NA application if they are selling them packaged with 9.0:1 pistons. Perhaps if they offered some 11+:1 compression pistons or something I could see the use. As it stands, I still don't see why anyone would buy them with the other options available.
#25
My350z
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first of all i only stated that there are cheaper options that will perform as well or even better.
and to the guy who only revs to 5500, you are speaking to me and alberto about where to shift our cars?? haha, you keep short shifting and see where that gets ya. just cause on a dyno your car starts to lose hp, you are STILL in a lower shorter gear, this will propell the car faster forward until you get to the point where your car loses so much powerXgear that the next gear will overcome that. this happens more in older muscle cars that drop WAY off over but will not happen with these cars, losing a few hp up top in 3rd will still go faster than being lower down in 4th.
another benefit of shifting at rev limiter (or close) is that the cross over to the next gear is higher and more in these cars powerbands...
and to the guy who only revs to 5500, you are speaking to me and alberto about where to shift our cars?? haha, you keep short shifting and see where that gets ya. just cause on a dyno your car starts to lose hp, you are STILL in a lower shorter gear, this will propell the car faster forward until you get to the point where your car loses so much powerXgear that the next gear will overcome that. this happens more in older muscle cars that drop WAY off over but will not happen with these cars, losing a few hp up top in 3rd will still go faster than being lower down in 4th.
another benefit of shifting at rev limiter (or close) is that the cross over to the next gear is higher and more in these cars powerbands...
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
another benefit of shifting at rev limiter (or close) is that the cross over to the next gear is higher and more in these cars powerbands...
OT but that shortshifting is doing absolutely nothing for ya
#27
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It would seem that there are many valid points regarding these rods. I personally agree that they are priced incorrectly, especially for the American market in that they cost more than many other sets of rods will cost and to a point are a compromise with the exception of weight and the overall quality.
While yes it is true that you will not have to balance these (as much most likely) as rods such as Eagle, they still are a bit pricey and I personally will be using Eagle rods in my setup for the sake of economy and because they have been a trusted brand for many other applications and I think they will start to wedge their way into the VQ35 world quite competetively.
While yes it is true that you will not have to balance these (as much most likely) as rods such as Eagle, they still are a bit pricey and I personally will be using Eagle rods in my setup for the sake of economy and because they have been a trusted brand for many other applications and I think they will start to wedge their way into the VQ35 world quite competetively.
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Well... heres the funny thing. I guess we are obviously all going tohave our opinions or what we believe are facts as to how you or someone ''says'' you should shift when racing or in my case street drifting and racing.
I know my car just as you know yours and so forth. I shift at 5500; i double clutch, and i know my power points depending on the conditions of the area i am in and the road length. So if you want to sit here and ***** about where i shift and how i am losing out and i must be possibly losing the majority of my races... your more than welcome to show up in my area an see what my Z truely does...
Im not sayin its the fastest or even faster than yours... who knows... im only at 9.5lbs on a single turbo. no fuel return. so obviously its not the badest thing on here by far. But if your not seeing me perform then you cant possibly tell me how my car drives... that simple.
meanwhile back at the ranch.....
Yes, this HKS set up is specified for midrange boost power. But like its always said.. you pay for what you get. This set up has its purpose and requires no machining/ balancing..(so they say of course).. This is not a bad thing.. AND LETS NOT FORGET HKS OVER CHARGES EVERYTHING THEY HAVE... so its only a mater of time before another company manages to do the same thing they did with all set ups... being that of I, H, A beam rods......
It looks like an opening to another level of muilt pistons an rods.
Gessh...all the bickering is super gay. i mean really... too many people focus on negitivity and are too busy down playing someone else. Its just simply an informational that i wanted to post....
I know my car just as you know yours and so forth. I shift at 5500; i double clutch, and i know my power points depending on the conditions of the area i am in and the road length. So if you want to sit here and ***** about where i shift and how i am losing out and i must be possibly losing the majority of my races... your more than welcome to show up in my area an see what my Z truely does...
Im not sayin its the fastest or even faster than yours... who knows... im only at 9.5lbs on a single turbo. no fuel return. so obviously its not the badest thing on here by far. But if your not seeing me perform then you cant possibly tell me how my car drives... that simple.
meanwhile back at the ranch.....
Yes, this HKS set up is specified for midrange boost power. But like its always said.. you pay for what you get. This set up has its purpose and requires no machining/ balancing..(so they say of course).. This is not a bad thing.. AND LETS NOT FORGET HKS OVER CHARGES EVERYTHING THEY HAVE... so its only a mater of time before another company manages to do the same thing they did with all set ups... being that of I, H, A beam rods......
It looks like an opening to another level of muilt pistons an rods.
Gessh...all the bickering is super gay. i mean really... too many people focus on negitivity and are too busy down playing someone else. Its just simply an informational that i wanted to post....
#32
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dude, all i am saying is that your are preaching your driving "ways" to some of the best drag racers on the board. go to the track with your car and run some great times and back up this "skill" you have for short shifting, you will be so far into 5th gear at 4000 rpms you will run some low 13s.
Then, you should pm me or alberto and we will give you some tips on how to drive and get a better 1/4 mile time. (better quarter mile time means your car is going down the track faster)
The "FACT" is that short shifting and double clutching your car will make it slower in the quarter mile. this isnt an opinion at the least. if you dont believe us, then prove us wrong ....
Then, you should pm me or alberto and we will give you some tips on how to drive and get a better 1/4 mile time. (better quarter mile time means your car is going down the track faster)
The "FACT" is that short shifting and double clutching your car will make it slower in the quarter mile. this isnt an opinion at the least. if you dont believe us, then prove us wrong ....
#33
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
The "FACT" is that short shifting and double clutching your car will make it slower in the quarter mile. this isnt an opinion at the least. if you dont believe us, then prove us wrong ....
#35
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Originally Posted by Lawn Dart
First of all, I believe that HKS's intention was to produce a piston & connecting rod kit to compliment their supercharger or single turbo kit. Their forced induction kits are also not considered to be the greatest value, but have been proven to be great performers.
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Originally Posted by Three5oZee
lol @ the dumbest question on the thread.....
Anyway.... if SFR made my manifold or SSR made it... im not really concerned with that anymore. It performs really well now.
....
Anyway.... if SFR made my manifold or SSR made it... im not really concerned with that anymore. It performs really well now.
....
Yes but we are concerned that other companies dont get credit for our hard work Another point to consider about balancing the motor or buying parts that are "balanced" is the fact that when we balance our motors,we balance the entire roataing assembly.Meaning the crank,rods,pistons and flywheel,front pulley if available.So if you are buying pistons and rods that are "balanced" you might want to have a machine shop balance the entire assembly before your do the final assemble on the motor.Just a thought.
Tim
SFRTT system
SFR Dual 3" Carbon Ti exhaust
476WHP on stock motor
#37
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A valid point was brought up about HKS making them to compliment their turbo/super charger kits. While yes I agree that their kits are fairly "weak" from the standpoint of horsepower, I believe that HKS is trying to do something quite unique with their company.
HKS seems to be utilizing their individual component sales to meet the needs of those who want high WHP. Most would agree that there is no kit out there that you can just bolt on and make crazy WHP#'s. At some point something will need to be improved or customized to meet the individual's needs because essentially compromises in performance are often made by manufacturer's in order to retain many stock convienences.
I believe that in the case of HKS's turbo kits and supercharger kits they are trying to meet the needs of those who want a complete kit to make their car faster. Not the fastest. You obviously noticed that HKS was by no means the first to come out with a form of FI for our cars. Granted there may have been other reasons I would have to say that their kits are great kits in that they are not trying to push to much out of the box which is a good thing.
HKS seems to be utilizing their individual component sales to meet the needs of those who want high WHP. Most would agree that there is no kit out there that you can just bolt on and make crazy WHP#'s. At some point something will need to be improved or customized to meet the individual's needs because essentially compromises in performance are often made by manufacturer's in order to retain many stock convienences.
I believe that in the case of HKS's turbo kits and supercharger kits they are trying to meet the needs of those who want a complete kit to make their car faster. Not the fastest. You obviously noticed that HKS was by no means the first to come out with a form of FI for our cars. Granted there may have been other reasons I would have to say that their kits are great kits in that they are not trying to push to much out of the box which is a good thing.
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I think its a good marketing strategy. HKS can offer, through their dealer network and resellers, not only the means to supercharge (and turbo, eventually) the VQ, but even build the motor for increased power and reliability, using all HKS parts. So from the hard parts, to the soft ones (guages, boost controllers, blow off valves), to the engine mgmt, one can go all HKS. Now, you might argue that does not delivery the best bang for the buck and that by sourcing mixed components from various sources, one can do better economically, but I don't think the customer HKS is going for is overly concerned with that. Instead, they want to know that all the components were intended to be used together and compliment each other.
If you think about it from that standpoint, no other company offers the sheer number of products that cover engine, internals, forced induction, accessories, and driveline, but HKS. Many may not be brand loyalists anymore here, but there are still lots of retail customers not on these boards that want to go with a single company for everything.
Maybe Will can chime in with his thoughts....
If you think about it from that standpoint, no other company offers the sheer number of products that cover engine, internals, forced induction, accessories, and driveline, but HKS. Many may not be brand loyalists anymore here, but there are still lots of retail customers not on these boards that want to go with a single company for everything.
Maybe Will can chime in with his thoughts....
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
dude, all i am saying is that your are preaching your driving "ways" to some of the best drag racers on the board. go to the track with your car and run some great times and back up this "skill" you have for short shifting, you will be so far into 5th gear at 4000 rpms you will run some low 13s.
Then, you should pm me or alberto and we will give you some tips on how to drive and get a better 1/4 mile time. (better quarter mile time means your car is going down the track faster)
The "FACT" is that short shifting and double clutching your car will make it slower in the quarter mile. this isnt an opinion at the least. if you dont believe us, then prove us wrong ....
Then, you should pm me or alberto and we will give you some tips on how to drive and get a better 1/4 mile time. (better quarter mile time means your car is going down the track faster)
The "FACT" is that short shifting and double clutching your car will make it slower in the quarter mile. this isnt an opinion at the least. if you dont believe us, then prove us wrong ....
... im not dissagreeing what your saying... you guys run drag... i do not touch the 1/4 mile track... i have no desire there. when you drift an tell me that what im doing is wrong then i will listen to u. but the thing is i know its not wrong an it works for me....an looks damn good!
Im not knockin what u guys say... very few street races are 1/4 races... remember i said street races... an those may last for about 1/8 a mile at the most... thats all... I doubt no ones technique; but you cant tell me something doesnt work for me when im there seeing it happen an eatin these guys off the road at short distances...trust me if u were there an saw what happenes then u would agree with me... its a short distance dude, thats all...