Finally! CES light extinguished w/ Amuse R1
#1
Finally! CES light extinguished w/ Amuse R1
As some of you know, when installing the Amuse R1 Titanium, and maybe some of the other exhausts, the evaporative emmissions cannister has to be removed to make room for the large radius bends piping. This throws several codes, and I have been trying to figure out how to fool the system into thinking 'everything is okay'.
After weeks of fruitless searching of web forums and clearing various CES codes, I finally came up with a system to keep the CES out without the evaporative emmissions cannister on the car, and it cost me almost NOTHING. I know some may have found a cannister relocation kit, but the one I heard of was expensive and looked like crap. Here's what I did.
First, disconnect both electrical connectors and the three hoses, and remove the cannister. The only thing left on the car will be the two connectors and the two metal tubes.
Place a cap on the smaller of the two tubes, I believe there is engine vacuum on this one.
The other, bigger tube, goes to the gas tank. I placed a cap on this one also, only with a pin hole in it to accommodate venting of fumes. I may put a small vent filter on it in the future.
Remove the two electrical components from the cannister, they snap out (a solenoid valve and a pressure sensor), and cap or cover the ports. I used latex glove fingers and tie wraps.
Plug the two devices back into the respective connectors on the car and tie wrap the whole assembly to the vent tube to keep them secure.
That's it. No more CES, and easily restored if ever necessary. No guarrantee on passing emmissions in your state, but it passed in Maryland since all they do is check for codes on the OBD2 port > no codes. BTW, I own a 35th Anniversary model.
EDIT: This also removed 2.5 lbs of weight from the car. Every little bit helps!
After weeks of fruitless searching of web forums and clearing various CES codes, I finally came up with a system to keep the CES out without the evaporative emmissions cannister on the car, and it cost me almost NOTHING. I know some may have found a cannister relocation kit, but the one I heard of was expensive and looked like crap. Here's what I did.
First, disconnect both electrical connectors and the three hoses, and remove the cannister. The only thing left on the car will be the two connectors and the two metal tubes.
Place a cap on the smaller of the two tubes, I believe there is engine vacuum on this one.
The other, bigger tube, goes to the gas tank. I placed a cap on this one also, only with a pin hole in it to accommodate venting of fumes. I may put a small vent filter on it in the future.
Remove the two electrical components from the cannister, they snap out (a solenoid valve and a pressure sensor), and cap or cover the ports. I used latex glove fingers and tie wraps.
Plug the two devices back into the respective connectors on the car and tie wrap the whole assembly to the vent tube to keep them secure.
That's it. No more CES, and easily restored if ever necessary. No guarrantee on passing emmissions in your state, but it passed in Maryland since all they do is check for codes on the OBD2 port > no codes. BTW, I own a 35th Anniversary model.
EDIT: This also removed 2.5 lbs of weight from the car. Every little bit helps!
Last edited by undrgnd; 05-07-2006 at 04:40 PM.
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Originally Posted by undrgnd
Remove the two electrical components from the cannister, they snap out (a solenoid valve and a pressure sensor), and cap or cover the ports. I used latex glove fingers and tie wrap.
I'm going to try this soon as i get back home from work and let you know how it goes .
Thanks!
#4
Originally Posted by AFKGuy
I was also thinking of doing this a week ago after i installed mine, but i wasn't too sure if it's a good idea. How hard is it to remove those 2 male connectors from the evap cannister? and what kind of tools did you use to take them out?
I'm going to try this soon as i get back home from work and let you know how it goes .
Thanks!
I'm going to try this soon as i get back home from work and let you know how it goes .
Thanks!
No problem at all. The pressure sensor snaps in straight with two tabs (pull straight out), and the solenoid (the larger of the two) is kept in place by one tab and then twists off (about 120deg CCW). Both have o-rings, be careful not to lose them. Good luck!
Sorry, I didn't take any pics, but for anyone who undertakes this, it is self explanatory.
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Wooohooo~! I cleared it~! No more annoying CEL/SES light~!
I only drove for about 10-15 miles to do a test-run and restarted the car 5-7 times after i did this setup. I hope the CEL/SES will not light up again because of this situation.
Later this week, i'll try to post up some vid/sound clips of my Amuse "Howling" thru the streets...
Anyways, Big Thanks to undgrnd once again~!
I only drove for about 10-15 miles to do a test-run and restarted the car 5-7 times after i did this setup. I hope the CEL/SES will not light up again because of this situation.
Originally Posted by Zexy
Hmm. Can you provide some type of pics or diagram? That would help.
Later this week, i'll try to post up some vid/sound clips of my Amuse "Howling" thru the streets...
Anyways, Big Thanks to undgrnd once again~!
#6
Excellent AFKguy!!! Nice shot too, I couldn't get my camera in there after I dropped it on the ground. Did you cap your vacuum line? It looks like it's open in the pic. There is vacuum on that line normally, but very little flow since the gas tank is sealed, so I would cap the line or you will be running a little lean. Also make sure to push the heat shield up around the switches so that heat from the exhaust does not damage them in the long run. I've checked my ECU and there are no pending codes after hundreds of miles, so we should be good to go.
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After driving a few miles on the way to work my CES/SES went on
Thanks for reminding me about this. I didn't have time the other day to seal off the pipes but i did it tonight. This might be the cause why my CES/SES went on this morning.
Here's a few pics i took of my new updated set-up.
Please keep me updated if you have any alternative or more updated set-ups. I'll definitely let you know how things goes down here. Thanks once again~!
Originally Posted by undrgnd
Excellent AFKguy!!! Nice shot too, I couldn't get my camera in there after I dropped it on the ground. Did you cap your vacuum line? It looks like it's open in the pic. There is vacuum on that line normally, but very little flow since the gas tank is sealed, so I would cap the line or you will be running a little lean. Also make sure to push the heat shield up around the switches so that heat from the exhaust does not damage them in the long run. I've checked my ECU and there are no pending codes after hundreds of miles, so we should be good to go.
Here's a few pics i took of my new updated set-up.
Please keep me updated if you have any alternative or more updated set-ups. I'll definitely let you know how things goes down here. Thanks once again~!
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#8
That should do it. I received a CES when I left it open also. It showed up after a couple of start cycles. Something about "abnormal purge flow". I read up on it in the FSM, and noted that little to no flow is acceptable. Since capping it, and several starts and hundreds of miles later, no lights and nothing pending.
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That all sounds great...
FWIW...
I would be concerned about the accumulation of vapor under the car.
The pupose of the canister is to store vapor while the car is stationary.
During the heat of the day expansion will force vapors out of the tank.
There is a potential hazzard, if not safely vented.
FWIW...
I would be concerned about the accumulation of vapor under the car.
The pupose of the canister is to store vapor while the car is stationary.
During the heat of the day expansion will force vapors out of the tank.
There is a potential hazzard, if not safely vented.
#11
Don't sweat the details man. Older cars never had evap cannisters and I never saw one catch on fire or blow up. There are so few vapors escaping that I have yet to catch a scent of gasoline yet. If you feel unsafe, don't do it.
I would suspect the G35 has the same evap system, so this should work the same.
I would suspect the G35 has the same evap system, so this should work the same.
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Originally Posted by undrgnd
Don't sweat the details man. Older cars never had evap cannisters and I never saw one catch on fire or blow up. There are so few vapors escaping that I have yet to catch a scent of gasoline yet. If you feel unsafe, don't do it.
I would suspect the G35 has the same evap system, so this should work the same.
I would suspect the G35 has the same evap system, so this should work the same.
Just wondering if it was a good idea to extend the vent to where it would escape better.
OR
What about connecting the 2 hoses to make a closed loop?
The vac line & vent line.
Isn't that the way it is now... just with the canister in between.
Last edited by inTgr8r; 05-24-2006 at 04:46 AM.
#14
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
I wasn't worried about venting...
Just wondering if it was a good idea to extend the vent to where it would escape better.
OR
What about connecting the 2 hoses to make a closed loop?
The vac line & vent line.
Isn't that the way it is now... just with the canister in between.
Just wondering if it was a good idea to extend the vent to where it would escape better.
OR
What about connecting the 2 hoses to make a closed loop?
The vac line & vent line.
Isn't that the way it is now... just with the canister in between.
Yes, that was my first inclination, to connect the two hoses together. I did not have the correct hose adapters, and frankly, if I could make the CEL go away without doing that, I was set. After several start/stop cycles, the CEL has come back (code is for large purge leak). I can clear it with my Actron code reader, so it's no big deal. As long is it's cleared when I take it for emmissions testing every two years, I really don't mind the CEL. However, I may try to see if connecting the two hoses together thru a suitable resistance (to simulate the cannister) clears the CEL permanently. I have some reservations about spending more time on this since I can live with an intermittent code which I can clear in 30 seconds, but it depends on how bored I am - probably a winter project. I had already looked at the FSM, and it appears that the ECU may be looking for a graded flow depending on RPMs and/or engine status, so it may not be that easy, and it may not work at all without considerable effort, but give it a try anyway.
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Your going to have to find a way to fool the system into thinking there is pressure in the system. If you plug up the line going into the purge control valve then the computer will see that the pressure is not right and throw codes... The reason your not throwing codes at first is because its a 1st Time logic code and will only trigger the codes if computers senses the same problem twice after a certain amount like cruising for 10-15min above 2kRPM. I would recommend not capping any lines and figure a way to mount the EVAP canister else where...
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