Srivero297

iTrader: (2)

Okay from what Ive searched around and found...
Most people say is that in order to fix the whole camber/feathering problem you need to get A-arms for the front and camber arms plus toe arms for the rear.
First of all, is this correct, and am I missing anything??

Second of all, which companies are the best ones to go with??
I know there are many companies that sell these. 350Evo, Stillen, Kinetix, SPC, Cusco.. and there might be more.

I dont know.. they way I saw it.. the 350Evo and the Stillens were both very expensive, so are they worth it? How are they better than the others?
Visually, the Kinetix products looked flimsier than the others, so I thought maybe that explained the cheaper price.
the SPC products are only bolts for the rear rather than arms, which explains why they are cheaper.
Which leaves Cusco... Anybody have experience with Cusco camber correcting products??

well... if anyone can answer any of the questions I raised in this thread that would be a big help. My stock tires are destroyed (my dealership will NOT cover under warranty because I am over 24k miles) and I dont want my Nittos to eat it too.

350Zteve

iTrader: (6)

Here's my $.02....Getting the front upper arms will give you the adjustablitily you need to maximize tire life. Given that, There are only two brands that I like. The 350EVO and the Performance Nissan. I lean towards the PN ones because they use shims and therefore could never slip. 350EVO is no dummy and I bet his are not going to slip either, so both would be a great choice. They are both the most expensive, but quality costs.

For the rear, there are quite a few choices. I'm personally going to go with the Hotchkis arms when they are released. My second choice would be Kenetics.

Srivero297

iTrader: (2)

Yeah.. those 350Evo arms look like they are pretty good quality. I might just suck it up and pay more to get a better quality product.
I dont know what to do about the rears though...

I dont track my car... I do drive aggresively sometimes... when Im in the mood I guess. I would want to improve my car's handling, but my most prominent concern is the treadware on my tires.
That being said, I wouldnt want a product that is made for an all out track car, but I still want a good quality product.

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

I have the Performance Nissan Arms, which are no longer made, they got the alignment to where I needed.

For the rear, I need to correct you. SPC does make camber arm, but the toe correction is done by bolts only. That is what I run.

On a 1" drop, I got my alignment to where I need it to be. (-0.7F, -1.6R, fully adjustable toe)

For comparison purposes, the 350Evo will be better than the PN arm due to the fact that they allow for a lower car to pull out 0.5 degrees more camber (testing done on protocav's G35). Other than that, the bushings that come stock in the 350Evo arms are superior ... but protocav resolved that for me with some new custom machined ones for my PN arms.

GregGSC

iTrader: (2)

just an fyi the Hotchkis rear camber arms are on the back burner right now. they have tested them and did not get what they were looking for as far as camber adjustment. the toe arms were stopped awhile ago do to not moving the toe at all.

I to am joining the hunt for rear camber and toe adjustment as i have found a set of coilovers that i actually like.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

You've had and still have a superior solution in front of you the whole time. You can't alway's walk the line of only looking at what you have in your store and nothing else. SPC camber arms and elongated toe cam bolts. Adjusting from the proper oem location for toe is the ONLY way to do it, not with trying to use adjustable radius rods.

GregGSC

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for your opinion again. it really means a lot to you doesn't it? What is in our store is what we have used and what works.

What are your allignment specs with the SPC and the Elongated Toe bolts? How much of a drop is your Z oh wait you have a G35 Sedan don't you. hmm Did you read some where on the web that it works best or have you done it? have you used these on a Z and worked with them on an alignment rack or are you just relisting what others have said and what others have done in the past.

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

The SPC rear setup is great. I know at least 10 coilover'd cars in SoCal .. with drops ranging from 0.75" to 2"+ that have been able to correct the camber and toe to spec. ... fender rolling thats another issue

It really is the cheapest, and I think the best option out there right now.
See this page for a good write up on how to install them if you need it.

Jim

protocav

iTrader: (3)

it is not his opinion...it is the gospel. my G35 coupe is lowered about 1.75" all the way around. my front camber is -0.7 (350evo arms) and my rear camber is -1.4 (with the toe set to 0.0, thank you).

i have kinetix camber rods (use whatever you like, they are all the same) and SPC toe bolts. the toe bolts are the only way to correct your toe, when you are correcting camber. the radius/toe rods only adjust caster, since they are actuated along the center axis of the car. its not magic, it's geometry.

take a look at the link to my website that JimRHIT posted above. you can see for yourself.

Chad

P.S.--i am sensing the thinly veiled sarcasm in your post. i would save it. Gsedan35 and I know what it takes to make the suspension on this car correct. take a look at some of our other suspension posts.

GregGSC

iTrader: (2)

Jim

Not that I would have a problem running the SBC but the last thing that i would suggest to any customer is to go in and drill out part of the subframe of their car. If you had any idea of the amount of problems people have with installing springs and sway bars there is no way i would trust anyone to go do it. I still think there is a better way. and what specs are people getting with the sbc toe fix? with say a 1" front and 1.5 rear drop?

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

~1" drop F+R and I could set my rear camber to -1.0 and still get the toe to zero without any issues. I just did this while it was on the rack to see what I could do. I am now set at -1.6 (toe = 0.05 on both side, done on purpose). I think it handles great.

I understand the concerns with "drilling" the frame ... but to get things done correctly, this needs to be done. If you really saw the amount that is removed (about 1/2 of a dime), you wouldn't be concerned at all. BUT, this will scare the crap out of most customers...so it isn't too common of a mod.

protocav said he set his camber to -1.4 with a 1.75" rear drop .. pretty darn good if you ask me.

IAPDirect.com

iTrader: (1)

The SPC camber kits are a great product. The camber arms have -4.0 to +4.0 degrees of available adjustment and the camber bolts have -3.0 to +3.0 degrees of adjustment. Also he ^^ is right about the amount of material that is drilled out. It is very, very little and the item comes with full instructions and a template detailing how to elongate the factory mounting hole. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

Just for reference purposes, SPC has been around for over 30 years and they specialize in camber kits and alignment equipment only. They are also the OEM for all of the Eibach camber kits.

You can check them out at: www.camberkit.com

zwindsor

iTrader: (6)

Actually there is an alternative to the SPC bolt. It's an eccentric bushing that does the same thing and you don't have to drill anything. It's made by K-Mac in Australia and has been out for close to 2 years now. One or two guys in the forum have them and I haven't heard any complaints. K-Mac doesn't do much in the way of advertising so they aren't well known.

They come in a set of four and you replace the bushings in both the stock front lower link (aka camber rod) and the rear lower link (aka spring perch).

Just passing this along not making any recommendations.

mojo powered

iTrader: (2)

hmm interesting.. you say front lower link as well? I'd love to hear from someone that has tried these.

zwindsor

iTrader: (6)

That's what they say. K-Mac still hasn't come up with anything for the front suspension yet.

I tried doing a search for the original post about these but the results don't go back far enough. The first guy that bought them was the one who posted the picture I put in.

~~O8>

iTrader: (7)

Actually the drilling is very minimal, it only needs to be drilled on the inner half of the stock frame, 1/4 to 1/3 of a centimeter or so of the original spot where the OEM toe bolt is located. I've a novice when it comes to wrenching but I did the install myself and I am completely happy with it (the parts look top notch and have some simple instructions for install). Seeing that the drilling is actually only on a place where the stock toe adjustment location is makes alot of sense, and there seems to be no arm/rod equivalent out in todays market that will give you the proper adjustment without putting the rest of the camber and caster settings out of wack.

I also had my alignment completed by the guys at WestEnd in Gardena, they are some true experts when it comes to alignment, they have actually fabricated alignment jigs to add/subtract camber, toe, caster, etc in Nissans meant for racing and at the track. Darrin, the boss, even told me that my car was probably the best realigned G35 he'd ever done and I only have the SPC camber rods and toe bolts in the rear.

I'm not associated with SPC in any way, I only appreciate a very cost effective product which effectively does what the manufacturer says--that will ultimately saves me $$$ in rear tires. Now if only someone would make a product as good for the fronts......Evo350, Kinetix, Cusco.....blah blah blah....

~~O8>

iTrader: (7)

I forgot to mention I have about -1 degree in camber in the rear with the SPC kit on Tein basic coilovers set on the very last thread of the lowering coil, basically its greater than a 2 inch drop. If only I could could add another inch worth of thread on the coilover to lower it some more.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I thought about using the bolt but ended up using the Kinetix toe arms and the SPC camber arms....and love the setup now...I can now alter castor, camber and toe in the rear. Car is lowered 2 inches out back and have -2.0 camber and 0 toe, with castor that is well within spec

Up front used the Cusco a arms....car is lowered about 2 inches as well (25 inches from center line of fender to the ground). Running -2 degrees up front for camber as well (car loves it,and I love the turn in response), and can go down to -1.3 degrees at max full adjustment on the Cusco arms. If I slot the holes on the Cusco arms, I can get down to under -1 degree, though I saw no purpose to that, so left them alone.

I hear ya on the drilling Greg......lots of people have difficulty installing springs on these cars, so asking them to drill is tricky. However, for a competant shop, its a no brainer

Adam

JDMFairlady21

iTrader: (9)

hey Z1,
i find this thread extremely helpful about the complicated suspension issues that lowered Zz deal with... realized that you're from my way... are you a shop owner/employee? i would definitely wouldn'nt mind letting your shop do the install on the SPC kit and my Tanabe coilovers sometime in mid-summer... there aint too many shops in NY that have experience with the 350z, especially in LI... if possible could you give me estmate on the install and alignment via PM? thanks.

to a somewhat noob in the Z33 family I defnitely believe this is a great thread with very good info... thanks guys and good luck SRivero

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

while we are a shop, unforutnately we are so swamped with our 2 ITS cars and our own projects that we no longer do customer installs, sorry