12SecZ

was told they ship 3 day Fed Ex, that would put mine here tomorrow. Rather than post all over the board I am going to use just *this* thread. If you have ideas post em if you have troll type posts or don't like SC'ers or think I got ripped off or should have went Stillen or Turbo or whatever please keep that out of the thread because I am sure if will boost sales (get it) and expand knowledge for others who read this and the less drama to wade through the better.

Others who already have gone through this chime in any time with tips and pics. This is a public forum and I cannot control what goes into this thread but I would like it to represent the professionalism of our members and our cars.

So here goes.

I talked to an installer today who is a member/Vendor of a very large and well respected Nor Cal Car Club (I no longer hang there but still have friends there, see them at the track and have them over to my house etc. ) I just am out of place in my Import in a Domestic car club. Nothing more nothing less. One of the members works, and even drives my car. He lowered it in his garage w/o a lift when I got the Eibach's (a small example of my friends there.) and the camber was almost perfect.


So let's get this party started!!!


Please help me keep this on track because it's gonna be another from door to Sac Raceway thread. The Installer is 30 minutes North of Sac Raceway FYI.

The Vendor I bought it from gave me a good deal because mine is one of the first (if not the first) A5T ordered in the USA. The Vendor is actually racing right now so he is keeping it real. He is also a board member. Mike @altered http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/

The Installer is Kieth in Yuba City about 25 minutes from my house. He too goes way back with ATI and actually has met them and has friends there at the plant. His website is,
http://www.forcefedperformance.com/

The process will be the 6 foot box at my door, open the box and show pics of all contents. Then take it to ForceFed.

He will do a baseline Dyno with just Injen Intake and Exhaust (all N20 has been disconnected and plugs are NGK platinum’s 1 heat range cooler Nissan part # 22401-5M016, NGK Part # NGK PLFR6A-11. My exhaust has been redone and made larger and more free flowing (no headers yet) and the timing is currently perfect after 3 hours of accumulated Dyno time. Pics of my exhaust under the car are at my website but it is ongoing right now as to my plans for it.

He will then install the entire kit including the GReddy Wide Band Exhaust Meter and redyno.

He will then set the FMU to the best he can at that time and Redyno. So when all is said and done it will be installed, dialed in and Dynoed before during and after.

I have listed both websites if you are interested and info on the kit is everywhere throughout this section as to what it includes, what it does and doesn't do etc.

I will not quote prices please don't ask take that up with the vendor and the installer. My kit is polished with the 7lb pulley.

Let's hope now for that delivery to get the ball rolling!

slay2k

Good stuff max, can't wait.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Max what does that mean? I think Chebosto mentioned something about cooler plugs as well.

In fact, I found the quote:

"be sure to swap out 1 step cooler
spark plugs if you live in a particullarly humid area for prevention of
detonation.. my Maxima supercharger had problems with that... "

I asked Mike about this and he seemed to think it wasn't necessary.

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

Are you going to run the Procharger through your Crawford Plenum? You didn't mention that piece being on for the baseline dyno.

12SecZ

Good point.

Well If I go way back to just intake and exhaust it was 242? I posted it somehere. Varabiles now come in to play but yes the plenum is now considered part of my base line.

Thanks. I won't be able to attribute gains to the plenum above 242 just so you know because it's a different city, different atmospheric conditions and different Dyno (although both are in ground.)

As for the plugs, When you spray, turbo or do anything that induces more heat into your engine it is always a good idea to lower the heat range of the plug to keep them cooler.

I read that on this kit 1 degree cooler is good and actually was told that Platinum will work well also.

I had already done plugs for N20 but that creates heat a totally different way. I wouldn't run stock heat range plugs on a FI car but this may be one of those opinions vary areas. I am going by the source as to the plugs and that source is who sold me the SC kit. Can't hurt if anything.

STB will also be an interesting issue. Will it fit? I think it will since my new one has been relocated (Doug's STB from Crawford.)

That leaves me with an extra STB.

More junk lying around!

zland

Thanks so much for starting this thread and giving review of the process. I know that like others, i am very interested in what you are doing. Thanks again, keep us posted, Jeff

Jeff@Performance

Are you guys changing out your clutches when adding all this extra power? As we are very interested in this project for one of our project cars, this question has come up more than once.

Zaphod 350z

Max, you might want to consider an irridium plug. Check this out...
http://sparkplugs.com/faqmain.asp

Look down 11 links regarding platinum plugs and nitrous oxide. Irridium is also recommended for blown motors as well. I'm running IKH22's and have been happy. I can give you part numbers if you'd like.

jritoli

Great Idea

Hopefully mine shows up today or tomorrow as well I will post everything I find or do here.


Jack

350_Z

iTrader: (3)

I ran a Jackson Racing Supercharger at 6psi on my Prelude for over a year. I am very interested in your results and how the 350z will respond to the supercharger. With the Prelude the biggest problem was getting the a/f down below 13. The stock injectors just couldn't flow enough even with the 5:1 FMU and Walbro fuel pump provided by Jackson Racing.

Eventually I just went with Hondata. That is a standalone system with 440cc injectors. I spend 6hrs on the dyno with a local tuner and after than I never had a problem. My a/f was a perfect 12.0:1 to 12.5:1 all the way to redline.

What kind of of fuel managment and timing managment does the kit come with? My biggest wonder is how well the stock injector can keep up.

The clutch in the 350z seems to be able to take some abuse so I'm sure that won't be upgraded for a while.

One final thing, I ran a 70shot of Nitrous on the Prelude before I went with the Supercharger. The difference is night and day, I'm sure you will be extremely happy with the switch.

Enjoy and keep us updated...

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

I read that about the plugs as well. I think it was ForceInduction (w/ Superchargersonline.com) that mentioned it. Interesting about the "higher humidity" climates, though. What's up with that? Obviously Houston would fall into that range, but what about SoCal? Or is going with 1 deg cooler plugs just a good idea in general when going FI? Keep us posted on this.

Did you get the full Procharger kit or the tuner kit? If it's the full kit, I'm interested to see if there's enough tuning room to tune it to your other mods such as the plenum.

You rock, man! Post pics ASAP!

GaryK

Dammit Max! You're gonna have yours before I get mine! I'm guessing mine will be in early next week. I'll get plenty of pictures as I install mine and probably do a web page showing the whole process. Good luck dude!

elektrik_juggernaut

Haven't been able to find a good priced aftermarket clutch yet.......i'll be putting in a new stock one just before my Procharger install.....i'm not too concerend about the clutch being worn prematurely since boost doesn't start right away.......i think it's supposed to start boost at about 3K rpms, but don't quote me on that

12SecZ

For the Nissan Rep,

I have an Auto, if you find a Tranny Cooler, Torque Converter or oil cooler that isn't Nismo JDM priced please let me know.
That is a real concern of mine and a to do for me.

I thought I would wait until after install though to see where the plumbing was and where I had room. I may just go with a pair of 11in B&M's 19GVW units from Summit, they are about .5 in thick ( and only 40 bucks each.)

I may even run them under the car if I have too. I did this on my LS1. You couldn't even see it.

The clutch is probably a concern and so is the rear end.

I would redline both oils tranny and rear end if I had a 6MT but I don't


Zaphod, yes part number please for those plugs if they are not too much. I got reamed 96 bucks from Nissan for these hard to find one degree platinums.

What else for now? Called ATI seems they are slammed on orders for these things. I bought the complete unit. My exhaust heat will determine if I am lean or rich and then the FMU (included )is reprogrammed according to the exhaust guage numbers but this will vary buy heat summer winter etc. The FMU and fuel pump is really advanced as far as protecting your car from lean conditions from what I have read. Then the final Dyno is run after FMU programming they can only do so much because of the limitations of the ECU. But w/o the guage you are just guessing via trial and error. A boost guage and Apexi unit would be cool but I am trying to keep it simple. I want a 11.999 car so I can dial in 12.0 and win every night. Break into the 11's too many times at my track and you get a NHRA Certified roll cage or get booted from racing, they are getting stricter on that. 12.0 is very fast, if you haven't been in a car doing 12.0 you have no idea! I did 12.1 and got light headed at launch with a 1,59 60 ' (no joke) it was a millisecond but still that's some G's!

What else? Gary what day did you order? ATI is back ordered on a part on the current kits in their plant but they are do in tomorow (just the one part) then they go out. I ordered mine 6-25-03 and my contact for this info at ATI today was Sue she was nice.

It's gonna be fun to have all these Z's running around now because you just never know who is beside you know ?

I like that. Nothing else today except I measured Doug's STB and it will fit.

EDIT ADD , EJ yours was there! Seems Kali is popular for this kit! Thanks to the board for giving the community a place to share info, I'm sure ATI thanks you too!

ForceInduction

Yes, you should run colder plugs with FI engines. Try to stay away from the platinum ones...they not work well with FI engines. Denso's are the best bar-none. They are very expensive but well worth it. If you need them I can get a hold of them for you.

Elevation does take some boost away from your FI engines. When ordering your kit you may want to tell them your elevation so they can adjust the pulley size so that you will get the boost you are looking for. Usually you loose around 1-2 psi of boost in high elevations.

elektrik_juggernaut

YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

I think Redline has an ATF available... ~$8 a bottle.. its hard to find but you can get it..

does the Auto for the Z have a valve body? a "shift kit" might be a good modification to change the spring tension inside the VB to shift the car faster-- it prolongs the life of the tranny so you're not power revving while the car is "pausing between shifts".... the main problem with automagics and a blower is that the shifting lags so bad, say, you're stomping on the pedal while you're driving and it cant decide which gear to select, so when it downshifts it jumps the revs up so fast, leading to premature tranny wear.... i bet it should be better though, with the auto-stick function the newer trannys have nowadays.

max: why dont you make your own tranny cooler? i think you can get kits with generic fittings... just dropping it a few degrees does wonders, even if it isnt a name brand...B&M makes some good ones...

12SecZ

Hi,

Let me put some miles on these NGK's before I just toss them away I already wasted 120 bucks on ZEX's Plugs.

I know Denso Irradium is the Shizzle but I should get everything dialed in first then do some of this other stuff like plugs. Right now my car timing is good and that is how I want it going into the shop.
I will keep you in mind though thanks!

I am at sea level or close to it. I know they always say we are gonna fall in the ocean so I should be ok there.

I am gonna do a B&M Tranny cooler after everything is done but I also want a 3200 stall TC and at that time when you drop the housing is when I will change the fluid right now I'm sure it's fine. Definately on my to do list though. I will race in manual mode so the pause will not be measurable.

Do they still use shift kits effectively these days for bang for the buck?

I know I had a nice one it my 70 Chevelle SS with the Turbo 400 and when the kit kicked in I could chirp all the way through third (it was an auto too)

GaryK

Max-
I didn't get my order in until 7/1. There was supposed to be about 4-5 days lead time on the kits at the time I ordered, so I figured my kit would be ready to ship by today. Hopefully mine will go out tomorrow after the backordered parts have arrived. We shall see.

I really should get a couple gauges like boost and egt to have ready for the ATI install. They'll probably go in the nav screen hole in the dash. I don't care to pay crazy prices for guages so I'll probably just grab some Autometer guages and use them.

elektrik_juggernaut

The car has a TCM (transmission control module) that would get confused if a shift kit were put on this car......it would see a difference in tranny fluid pressure, and then try to change the fluid pressure with all of the various valves in the tranny......essentially the TCM would try to negate the mod

The only way a tranny mod could be effective is with a TCM reflash.