I am interested in lowering my ride, about an 1". Is there a DYI step by step thread in here for that. It sounds pretty easy from what you guys are saying. I am pretty handy doing most mechanical things, but don't want to get in over my head. Thanx

 

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/198279-tein-s-tech-springs.html

 

okay a follow-up question, with Tein S springs, am I going to have to install a camber kit? If so, is that complicated. My '03 originally had feathering problems but once the factory issued the near specs. I have no problem with feathering. I have also replaced the OEM wheels with new rims and tires, F 245/40/18 & R 275/40/18. I don't want to cause more troubles for myself. Also, I am not a racer just a poser. Any suggestions? Mucho appreciate the comments.

 

misplaya when you say you used a breaker bar on the top strut while still on the car did you do that when the car was already on jack stands in the air or when the car is still on the ground?

 

This mite help. U have to carefully break the big nut loose and I do it on the ground. Then after its in the air I put my impact on it, making sure it is in reverse and hit the trigger. My reasoning behind this is, if there is the slightest burr on the threads the nut will lock and spin the piston rod. With the impact it comes off so fast that any burr or whatever just doesnt have the time to hinder the nut. Then before u reinstall make sure the nut threads smoothly, if not just chase the nut and rod thread with a tap and die.

 

hey E***zzzzy thanks for the help i got one more question. is it a big deal if i dont have an impact gun? this is going to be my first time lowering a z and i'm just a lil bit nervous about. i've done tons of hondas and toyotas and never had an impact, but i just want this one to go smooth. thanks in advance.

 

No --Its just something I learned to do to eliminate a potential pain in the ***. Just lube ur threads and go slo --If it hangs up, screw it down and find out why.
This isnt a big deal, but Iv had a 30 second job turn into a 2 hour job because of crappy threads and a nut that seizes up -----UGH

 

thanks bro i'm going to start right now and just hope for the best

 

Holler if u get in trouble ---Break ur links loose as the lower A and R@P ends----Helps sometimes to jack up the lower A when ur ready to go together---Common sense

 

alright just got done cleaning, putting all tools away, and a nice test drive. i must say it was a little harder than expected mostly cuz of the manual spring compressors. i took a lot of breaks and actually stepped away from it for a few hours. whats funny is the rear was just soooo easy. i only ran into one problem is that i couldnt tighten the top strut bolt good on the drivers side. the shaft kept spinning with the nut. i'm gonna go to the hoppy shop and just do a quick impact gun on it cuz i can hear its loose. thanks for the e***zzzzy and i highly suggest the gf210 for anyone looking for a cheap way to lower their z.

 

Depends on how old the car is ... on my friend's 03 350z, we tried socket wrench, 3/8" breaker bar, 1/2" breaker bar, 3/8" impact and finally had to get a 1/2" impact to get the top nut loose on one of the shocks.

Also as long as you have an impact, you do not need the spring compressor as stated be a few people already on here. On other cars, I have seen the top nut and perch go flying across the shop, however the Z has very little load on the shock that will do this.

Just be smart about things and don't overwork and kill yourself

 

Slightly OT, but is a realignment necessary if dropping just 1/2" - 3/4" (Teins?), and ONLY in the rear? For some reason I have an extra 1.5" of clearance between the tire and fender in the rear as compared to the front.